15 Feb 2018

Happy new year, Banaras. Day 3, part 1


Day 3, Part 1.


Last night, I did take a walk on the ghat and was beside the river when we entered the new year, I heard loud count downs somewhere in the distance and then a lot of people shouting "Happy New Year" followed by an even louder "Har Har Mahadev", I heard fireworks too but because of the fog, I couldn't see them.



I walked back to my hostel around 1AM, and quickly enrolled in a discussion with an American guy who was curious about the Indian Political system and the current state of things, I had to call it a night with a hot shower at 2AM. I wanted to wake up early to take foggy boat ride, but 20 kilometres of walking doesn't allow that.

Yesterday, I had casually asked a boatman on one of the smaller ghats about a ride and discussed about the prices, and after a mutual agreement he handed me a thin slip of paper with his number handwritten on it, he was giving it to anyone who he had even a word with. I asked his name and he replied with "Bhullan", I think it means forgettable or forgetful.

I saw the boatman again during my walk and he immediately recognised me and I recognised him, and he remembered our agreement. none of the meanings were true. We immediately set for our ride.

After a few minutes of silence, the boatman thankfully opened up for a chat, a two hour boat-ride with no conversation would've been a buzzkill. He kind of became my guide and kept me updated about the history and significance of each of the ghat, when we passed the ghat nearest to Kashi-Vishwanath temple he suggested we go see the temple, and I kept saying that I'll do that in the evening, I also told him that I am an atheist, and he said " Nobody stays an atheist in Kashi"
After reaching the temple, I saw that the queue was too long and it would have taken 4-5 hours to get in. I started searching for the boatman and when I found him, he was searching for me, he had seen the queue too, and wanted us to go back. I guess everyone is a theist with enough insistence and atheist with a priority.

After the ride, I walked to Lanka and tried the recommended Malaiyo and Lassi there and came back to the ghats, and went in for lunch at a rooftop cafe near the river, at 5:30 PM.

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